Cracolândia in São Paulo reveals the harsh realities of addiction and neglect
São Paulo: In a part of the city that’s as big as London’s Soho, Cracolândia stands as a grim reminder of Brazil’s ongoing battle with drugs. For over 30 years, this area has been a hotspot for crack cocaine use.
Here, hundreds gather daily to smoke crack in the streets. It’s one of the largest and most dangerous drug zones globally, despite numerous attempts to clean it up and help those living there.
During the day, you’ll see people who look like zombies, wrapped in blankets, their faces showing the toll of addiction. Some of them are just kids, as young as 13.
With no proper shelter or sanitation, many scavenge for recyclables, hoping to get enough cash for their next hit. The smell of garbage and sweat fills the air, making it feel like a Brazilian version of America’s Skid Row.
Police are around, but they’re not there to stop the drug use. Instead, they focus on preventing theft and violence in the area.
Despite several government efforts to shut it down, Cracolândia keeps bouncing back. Reports even say that smaller versions of it are popping up in other parts of the city.
In this place, a hit can cost just a few cents, making it dangerously easy for anyone to get hooked, from gangsters to former professionals.
People rush by, oblivious to the chaos just a few meters away. One resident, Felipa Drumont, has been living on the streets for years. She described her life as horrible, saying, “You don’t eat. You don’t sleep. Any money you can get goes on crack.”
Cracolândia isn’t hidden away; it’s right next to Luz, the busiest train station in the city, and close to colleges and entertainment spots. Even major newspapers have their offices nearby.
This stark contrast makes Cracolândia a source of embarrassment for city leaders. In 2014, Prince Harry visited to support a project aimed at reducing crime and drug use in the area.
Every new mayor promises to fix the situation. João Doria, who served from 2017 to 2018, declared war on Cracolândia shortly after taking office. He sent in hundreds of police officers to clear the streets, using rubber bullets and stun grenades.
Felipa recalled the chaos, saying, “The police turned up throwing bombs at everyone.” Many scattered, seeking refuge in nearby gas stations or shelters, while authorities arrested small-time dealers.
Doria claimed victory, saying, “Crackland is over and won’t come back.” But like his predecessors, he underestimated the area’s resilience. Within months, the drug users regrouped just a short distance away.
Experts say the problem is political, needing a unified approach based on scientific evidence rather than just political agendas. Without that, Cracolândia will likely remain as it is.
The persistence of Cracolândia reflects Brazil’s broader issues with drug addiction, poverty, and inequality. The country has the highest number of crack users globally, with around 370,000 in major cities.
São Paulo’s central location and its closeness to cocaine-producing countries make it a prime spot for drug trafficking, controlled by powerful gangs.
Efforts to dismantle Cracolândia often lead to a tragic cycle. Police raids may scatter users temporarily, but they always come back. Programs aimed at helping addicts have faced criticism and have been shut down.
Meanwhile, new “mini-Cracolândias” keep popping up, complicating the issue without ever truly solving it.
